![]() ![]() The most common form of these slides is a rectangular 35mm bit of film placed in a small square piece of cardboard or plastic shell for protection. Your grandparents’ photo slides are most likely mounted individual transparency slides used in yesteryear’s slide projectors. Not to fret, we’re here to help you decipher what type of slides are what. As you dig through the Red Wings boots shoebox, you notice they’re not all the same. You’ve just stumbled upon your grandparents’ old box of slides buried at the bottom of their ornate walnut chest they got as a wedding gift back in 1949. Only for slides, those differences are even easier to notice as they’re tangible objects that all look slightly different. Aperture around 8, speed between 1/20 and 1/160, depending on exposure.That may seem like a simple concept, but similar to today’s laundry list of digital photo formats (PDF, JPEG, PNG, etc.), there’s definite differences. I use the Liveview autofocus, which gives good results ! I pay attention to the speed, not to get blur. I tethered my D700 mounted on tripod on Capture One. I don't have any newton circles due to the small thickness of the paper. And on top I put a small glass (a bit smaller than the A4 lightbox) to flatten the whole thing. I slide the negative under, with a manual anti-dust blow plastic thing to avoid most of the dust (not sure what is the word for this, usually used for dust on the sensor). I taped one side of the paper on a thin led lightbox usually used for drawing. And it works pretty well ! Even with and old lens like the 60mm AFD and an old D700 (I don't need bigger files).īut for the 6圆, I used a black paper, in which I nicely cut a 6圆 square, after precise measurement. I guess that was more than 2 cents worth, but you may want to keep these points in mind when copying your chromes and negs with your digital camera.Īll these tips are useful ! As I decided to scan my negatives/slides, 135 and 6圆, I started to use the ES-2 Nikon. Obviously you won't need to do this for most images, but you'll probably run across a few that could use it. Some images may need multiple exposures to extract all the highlight and shadow detail in the image, so once you have a good setup, shoot anywhere between 3-5 frames 1-stop apart and stack 'em into an HDR image in any of the previous apps mentioned or any app that allows you HDR stacking, and adjust accordingly. Cardboard/plastic aperture window cutouts to reduce flare can also help flatten the film strip, depending on what material you make them out of. If your light surface is strong enough, you can scotch tape your neg strips to help flatten them out, just fold over a small tab on the tape so you can gently and safely remove the tape without ripping your negs. Don't count on being stopped down for extra depth of field when in macro mode. This will ensure your image is focused edge-to-edge. If your camera doesn't have focus bracketing, you will have to do it by hand. If your camera body allows for focus bracketing, shoot a few frames to ensure all the live areas are in focus and stack in an app like Photoshop, GIMP, Affinity Photo, or any of the open source or commercial stacking apps available. It's tricky in setups like these, but do your best. Try to align your sensor's plane with the film plane as parallel as possible on all four corners. Notice how all the edges of his images are out of focus. This will increase contrast and sharpness.įilm plane curvature will always be a problem scanning film, especially chromes left mounted in their paper or plastic mounts, and especially in crude setups like these. Depending on your setup, lay the cutout on top or below of your chrome or neg. Even with the most minimal setups he's shown you should cut out a window from a piece of thin cardboard from, say, a cereal box, and use as an aperture mask it to keep all the excess light from flaring the lens and, ultimately, your image. ![]() ![]() If you're not shooting RAW make sure you white balance your light source prior to shooting your images. ![]()
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